THE
TEMPLES
The architectural style of the Khajuraho temples
is very different from the temple prototype of that period.
Each stands, instead of within the customary enclosure,
on a high masonry platform. Combined with the upward direction
of the structure, which is further accentuated by vertical
projections, the total effect is one of grace and lightness,
reminiscent of the Himalayan peaks. Each of the chief compartments
has its own roof, grouped in such a way that the highest
is in the centre, the lowest over the portico, a triumph
of skill and imagination in recreating the rising peaks
of a range.
The temples of Khajuraho
are divided into three geographical groups :
Western, Eastern and Southern. The Western
group is certainly the best known, because it is to this
group that the largest and most typical Khajuraho temple
belongs : the
Kandariya Mahadev. Perfectly
symmetrical, it soars 31 km high. Though the four temples
that stand at the corners of the main shrine are now in
ruins, the main shrine has an exquisitely carved entrance
arch with a multitude of themes. Celestial beings, lovers
serenading musicians . . . movements captured in stone,
frozen in time, yet retaining a quality of warm, pulsating
life. The very stone seems to have taken on the living,
breathing quality of the carved figures.
Beyond the archway of the Kandariya
Mahadev, lie the six interior compartments; the portico,
main hall, transept, vestibule, sanctum and ambulatory.
The ceilings are particularly noteworthy and the pillars
supporting them have intricately carved capitals. The
transept's outer walls have three horizontal panels showing
deities of the Hindu pantheon, and groups of lovers, a
pageant of sensuousness, vibrantly alive.
Also in the western group is the
Chaunsat Yogini, the only granite temple in the
Khajuraho group. Dedicated to Kali, it is also unique
in being quadrangular in plan. Only 35 of the original
65 cells remain and no image of Kali has survived : not
surprisingly, since this is the earliest surviving shrine
of the group dated to 900 AD. Another Kali Temple (originally
dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi Jagadambe Temple.
North of it facing eastward to the rising sun,
is the Chitragupta temple, dedicated to the sun-god,
Surya. The image of this powerful deity in the inner sanctum
is particularly imposing : 5ft high, and driving a seven-horsed
chariot. The group scenes depicted are equally spectacular:
royal processions, elephant-fights, hunting scenes, group
dances. The lavish lifestyle of the Chandela kings and
their court is here in all its pomp and glory. Similar
in plan to the Kandariya Mahadev is the Vishwanath
Temple. Lions flank the northern steps and elephants
the southern, leading up to the temple. Within, there
is an impressive three headed image of Brahma. The exteriors
are profusely carved, and facing the shrine is a Nandi
Temple with a massive, 6 ft high Nandi bull.
Since the first few Chandela rulers
were devotees of Vishnu, there are some important Vaishnavite
temples in the Khajuraho group, the finest of which is
the Lakshmana Temple. The lintel over the entrance
shows the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, with Lakshmi,
Vishnu's consort. The sanctum is richly carved and has
a three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations, Narsimha
and Varaha. The boar incarnation also appears in
another Vaishnavite shrine, the Varaha Temple.
The statue here is a mammoth 9 ft high one, its surface
covered with figures from the Hindu Pantheon.
The Khajuraho temples are no longer
living places of worship, with a few exceptions. The Matangeswara
Temple for example is still a place of worship. Dedicated
to Shiva it has an 8 ft high lingam. South of this temple
is the open air Archaeological Museum, which has
a beautiful displayed collection of statues and friezes
collected from the area : the remains of long vanished
temples
Hindu and Jain temples make up the
Eastern Group, which lies close to the Khajuraho village.
The largest Jain temple, Parswanath, is in this
group. Exquisite in detail, the sculptures on the northern
outer wall make this temple perhaps the finest in the
group. The themes of these carvings are the timeless ones
of every day, mortal activity. A woman sits bent pensively
on a letter, a lovely young girl removes a thorn from
her foot, the master craftsmen of Khajuraho display here
their deep understanding of the trifles that make up a
human life. Within, the sanctum has a throne, which faces
a bull : emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The
actual image of Parswanath from which the temple derives
its name was installed as recently as 1860.
The other Jain temple in this group
is the Ghantai Temple. Though almost in ruins now,
it still bears evidence of its original splendour. Particularly,
arresting is the frieze which depicts, in graphic detail,
the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed Jain
goddess riding on a winged Garuda. North of Parswanatha
is the more modestly sized Adinatha Temple.
The three Hindu temples in the Eastern
Group are the Brahma, Vamana and Javari
Temples. A double row of apsaras, celestial nymphs,
adorn the outer walls of the Vamana temple. A variety
of sensuous attitudes : languid, provocative, mischievously
inviting, give credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's
erotica were meant to test the devotees who came to worship
their gods at the temples.
5 km from the Khajuraho village, lies the Southern Group
of temples. The fine Chaturbhuj Temple in this
group has a massive intricately carved image of Vishnu
in the sanctum. Duladeo Temple, another of the
southern group, is a little away from the road to the
Jain group of temples.
Though remains of temples belonging to the Khajuraho
group have been discovered at Jatkari, 3 km away and even
at Maribag in Rewa, it is at the 3 main groups that the
imperishable glory of Khajuraho, the sensuous celebration
of life, the aspiration towards the infinite, remains.
Excursions
- KHAJURAHO
Dhubela Museum 57
km.
Rajgarh Palace 25
km.
Ranguan Lake 25
km. Ideal angling and picnic spot. 
Benisagar Dam 7
km. Picnic spot.
Raneh Falls 20 km.
A beautiful picnic spot on the river Ken.
Pandav Falls34 km.
On Panna road. A scenic spot.
Panna National Park
32 km away. A mere 30-minute drive away from Khajuraho
and extending over 543 km, spread along the banks of the
River Ken,
Panna:44 km from
Khajuraho.
Majhgavan Diamond Mines:56
km from Khajuraho.
Kalinjar Fort:100
km from Khajuraho.
Ajaygarh Fort:36
km from Panna.
Ramvan:14 km from
Satna.
Nachna:40
km from Panna,
